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Openers here have a few local enemies: the yellow pollen that coats everything each spring, the afternoon storms that surge through the power lines, and townhome garages where a rattling chain drive sits right under somebody's bed. Most of it is a quick fix; some of it calls for a better opener. The estimate is free.
Every spring a film of yellow pine pollen settles over cars, porches and the two small sensors near the garage floor that tell the opener the doorway is clear. Once a lens is dusted over, it loses sight of its partner, and the door starts down, stops, and rises again with the light blinking. It's one of the most common calls of the year, and the motor has nothing to do with it. Want the door on your phone as well? Our smart garage door opener page covers new units and add-on hubs.
Wiping the lenses and resetting their aim clears it up. A bracket that's been nudged one time too many gets replaced, and a sensor wire that's been pinched under a shelf or chewed along the wall is rerun.
In a lot of townhomes the garage shares a ceiling with a bedroom or the living room, and an old chain drive shakes the whole unit every time it runs. A belt drive is dramatically quieter, and a jackshaft unit mounted on the wall beside the door, where the springs allow one, is quieter still and clears the ceiling of a cramped garage for storage.
Before a new opener goes up, the door itself is balanced and its rollers checked, because a heavy, grinding door is loud no matter what's pulling it.
Thunderstorms roll through most summer afternoons, and when the power flickers back on after each one, it arrives with a spike. That's what kills opener circuit boards: the unit goes dark, or it takes orders from the wall button and ignores every remote. A replacement board for the common brands goes in on the visit.
Two small additions are worth making on any opener here: a surge protector at the outlet, and battery backup for outages. Heat wears backup batteries out faster, so the battery gets a load test on each visit and is swapped out once it can't keep up.
In the order that finds the real cause.
Plenty of newer openers here run through a phone app, and the usual complaint is an app that says the opener is offline. Most of the time the router was replaced, the Wi-Fi password changed, or the garage sits at the ragged edge of the signal. The opener is reconnected on the visit, and a small range extender takes care of a weak signal.
Older openers can be brought onto an app with an add-on module. Either way, phone control only goes in alongside working safety sensors and a warning light and beeper, all checked during setup.
Tandem bays and two-door garages mean more remotes, more cars with built-in buttons, and sometimes two openers that need to stay out of each other's way. Every remote and car is paired to the right door, and the keypad can carry a different code for each. A remote clipped to a car parked outside is a key to the house, so the car's own buttons are the better choice.
Sandy Springs, Marietta, Roswell, Alpharetta, Decatur and Smyrna, plus Dunwoody, Johns Creek, Duluth, Lawrenceville, Kennesaw, Douglasville and the Gwinnett towns. Parts for the common brands ride along.
Give us your town and cross street for a window.
Spring pollen causes a lot of reversing doors. The sensors, not the motor.
Belt drives are the quiet choice. For garages under living space.
Surge protectors save boards. Summer storms are constant.
An offline app is usually the network. Not the opener.
A new opener makes sense when the old one's board has failed and parts can't be found, when it still uses remotes with a bank of tiny switches inside, or when it was always too small for the door. The replacement is a one-visit job: we balance the door, take the old unit away, and then mount and aim the sensors and pair the remotes, keypad and car buttons. HOA rules don't usually cover openers, since nothing changes on the outside of the house.
Pollen on the safety sensors. They're cleaned and realigned; it's a short visit.
Usually. Switching to a belt drive or a jackshaft unit, and balancing the door, quiets things a lot.
Usually. Where a rail won't fit, a wall-mounted unit beside the door will, as long as the door has torsion springs.
Yes. Most keypads can hold a separate code for each opener.
The opener dropped off the network, often after a router or password change. It's reconnected on the visit.
A surge most likely fried the circuit board, and we replace it on the spot.
We do: belt, chain or wall-mount, installed on one visit with the old unit removed.
Yes, and written before any work.
Call or use the form with your town, the closest cross street and a few words on what the door is doing. The two-hour window you get already allows for traffic, and the technician calls once on the way.
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